A chair that lists to port like a holed ship, or reclines and refuses to come back, feels terminal. It usually isn't. Under your seat is a steel plate called the tilt mechanism, and when it wears out it produces exactly these symptoms.
The lean. If the seat tilts to one side even when you sit square, the mechanism's pivot has worn asymmetrically or a weld has cracked. Check by removing the seat (usually four bolts) and looking for play in the plate.
The permanent recline. If the back lock won't engage — lever flapping uselessly — the locking pawl inside the mechanism has stripped.
The creak-clunk. A loud clunk when you lean back, then a catch, means the tension spring seat has deformed. It gets worse, never better.
Our replacement tilt & lock mechanism (£17.99) is the standard pattern: 150 × 255mm bolt spacing, fits a 1″ gas lift. Before ordering, measure between your existing bolt holes — if they match, it's a direct swap with the same four bolts.
1. Unbolt the seat from the old mechanism (note which holes you used).
2. Separate mechanism from gas lift — the taper joint needs a few taps from a rubber mallet.
3. Bolt the new plate to the seat, drop it onto the gas lift, sit down. Your weight seats the taper.
Fifteen minutes with basic spanners — the longest step is finding where you left the mallet.
Email a photo of your chair's underside to info@chairoutlet.co.uk and we'll diagnose it for free — we've been staring at chair undersides since 2006. If it turns out the whole underside is tired, the complete refurbishment kit (£52.99) does mechanism, base, gas lift and castors in one go.